from potato bin to worm bin, at least for a while

Introduction to my temporary worm bin

I have some people who donate their kitchen scraps to me so I can make compost and feed my worm bin s.

An old lady, who always donates with a smile, gave me some old potatoes that were showing some shoots. She didn’t want them anymore because they were no longer edible. So, I gladly accepted and I planted the potatoes in 2 of my bins. That’s how the story starts.


growing potato plants

two bins filled with potato plants

I had enough potatoes to grow 2 square meter of potatoes, that’s the same as two of my big white bins. So I planted the potatoes and they grew like hell.

good story, sad story

My potatoes did well for quite a while, but…
A week or 2 ago, summer hit us at full force. Hot temperatures, really dry weather, a lot of wind drying out the soil. And one of my bins had a serious problem. All the plants were wilting.

After a short inspection on the bin that was turning bad, I found out the potato disease hit my plants so I had to harvest them quite fast.

harvested potatoes from potato bin

Luckily for me the bad story of the potatoes wasn’t all bad. I had a pretty good harvest. And I found something really weird.

tiny composting worms

In the harvested potato bin, I found a lot of really tiny composting worms. Really weird, because I didn’t expect anything to survive in the soil due to the drought. Seems like they did anyways. But they were burried deep down in the soil. And although the worms were really tiny (not even an inch long), they were adults.

temporary worm bin

Story from a vermicomposter

The fact that I found really tiny, adult composting worms made me think of a story I read somewhere on the internet. I got to that story thanks to Bentley, the compostguy, Christy.

A long story short. It seems that composting worms can survive in the soil but due to the lack of food and the higher density of the soil, the worms will shrink and adapt to the environment.  I don’t really know if that’s true but someone said so and I found really tiny worms. So why not test it.

Newspaper and cardboard

So, now I added newspaper and cardboard on top of the bin and I soaked the bin really well. The worms will come towards the top of the soil and find a habitat in the shredded newspaper. By feeding them, I hope, they will grow out to their original size and I’ll be able to harvest them and put them in another specific worm bin.

will it work???

I don’t know whether my story will be a succes story but I’ll surely keep you updated on the proces and the evolution of that system. For now the bin will be a worm bin until I can harvest the worms or until the worms have died.


So, if I’m able to grow the worms to their original size and I can make them lay cocoons, the story I once read should be the truth after all (I did have my thoughts about it and sometimes it wasn’t really credible). I’m still searching for the original story because I really want you to read that story too( although, it’s quite a long story). If you’re in the vermicomposting, it will certainly entertain you. And maybe you’ll pick up a few things you didn’t know yet.

That’s it for this post. I hope you found it interesting. If so, please share with friends and family. I can surely use your help to give me some exposure. Thanks for reading and see you in my next post.


I found the website that spoke about a big amount of worms in a small bin.
Follow the link if you want to read it.

I started a new big white bin for my dendro’s or eisenia hortensis

introduction to my new white eisenia hortensis bin

I just started up a new white bin for my dendro’s or eisenia hortensis. At the moment the bin is only filled with bedding and a bit of food.

dendro bin or eisenia hortensis bin

paper as bedding for vermicomposting

I started up the bin with a bedding of shredded newspaper, some wet cardboard, a bit of compost and a bit of coffee grounds. I know from the past that eisenia hortensis really love cardboard and newspaper. I sometimes even wonder if I really need to feed the worms anything but paper and cardboard.

I did take some bags of frozen food and I spread it over the whole bin. I then covered it up with newspaper bedding so not to get too many fruit flies around.

I amended the bin with lavameal (rockdust) and I will keep this bin without worms for at least another week.

eisenia hortensis love cardboard and paper

Starting with 200 worms, eisenia hortensis

I plan to start with 200 dendro’s and let the worms fill up the bin with more worms and cocoons. I will take 200 dendro’s from my other white bin so that bin can expand as well.

keep the bin for about 3 months or…

My initial plan was to keep this bin operating for about 3 months before cleaning out the bin and starting with new bedding. But there is a small problem I have to take in account.
It is very well possible that I won’t be able to clean out the bin due to outside temperatures.

I keep my bin in an unheated outhouse. The bin itself is warmed on one side with heating cable so the bedding can’t freeze and kill off my worms. But the temperature in the outhouse can be quite cold and not warm enough to sort the worms.

heating cable for dendro bin

After calculating the time the bin needs to grow, I found out, it will be the month of octobre before I can sort the worms. In octobre it’s very much possible it’ll be to cold so I’ll have to keep the worms alive in the bin during the winter time. That could take up to 7 months. That means, I’ll have to keep the worms in the bin for 10 months total.

I know the worms and microbes will slow down decomposition in the winter so I should be capable of keeping the worms in the bin for about 10 months. But this also means that the population growth will slow down tremendously.


future plans??

I still don’t really know what I’ll do in the future to keep the worms growing through the winter months. I can ofcourse, like, Bentley, the compost guy says, keep a kind of motherbin inside so I have a small amount of worms still growing through the winter.

I don’t really know what to do, yet. But I’ll find a solution in the near future.


The first white bin is going reasonably well. So, starting up a second bin, is the obvious thing to do.

The second bin will go through winter I think, as I fear the temperature will be too low to remove the worms.

I’m still working really experimentally. I don’t yet have a real “standard” in the way I grow the worms. But we’ll see what the future brings.

That’s it for this message. Thanks for reading and see you in the next post.


experiment week 3 all cardboard small bin with 30 composting worms

Introduction on the composting worms in the cardboard bin.

I took a peek at the small bin with all cardboard and 30 composting worms. I was happily surprised with what I saw but I’m not really impressed.

cardboard bin sorting composting worms

26 adults

I went throug the bin roughly. I did mess up their habitat quite a bit but I didn’t peel open every piece of cardboard that was inside. I found 26 from the 30 worms alive and well. I’m not saying there are only 26 left but it’s a possibility. It’s also possible that some worms really did well in the hide and seek game. So I have 4 worms MIA (Missing In Action)

some cocoons

I also checked to see if I could find cocoons in the bin. And I did. But I wasn’t impressed with the amount of cocoons. I must say, once again,  I wasn’t thorough, so it is possible that I missed a bit of cocoons. I did find 2 really tiny red wigglers. I was sure they were red wigglers because they already had their color but they were barely bigger than a pot worm.

wormbin sorting

A lot of potting soil

I’m always talking about the “all cardboard bin” but I do have to mention that I filled it with quite a bit more old potting soil then I thought. The bin is still 90% cardboard but that 10 % bothers me. So it’s possible I’ll be doing the test again, but with pure cardboard and no other amendments.

Average result

So, to me, at this time, it seems to have an average result. Of course, there’s not so much to say about 3 weeks. I still have to wait and see the final result after 3 to 5 months. I’m still happy with an average result. It would save me quite a bit of money if I can grow the majority of my worms in cardboard. Of course, once this test is done, I can use food scraps to add to the bin. But knowing the worms can survive on pure cardboard is a big plus.  I just still need a decent way to shred the cardboard into smaller pieces.


At this point I can see the worms laying cocoons and growing in the cardboard. They don’t look perfect worms. But they are active and at least 26 are still remaining in the bin.

I’m sure that I can keep the worms alive with extra grain food so there’s no problem in growing the worms. But having a really good bedding for the worms, even when there’s no added food in the bin is a really positive point.

If I can grow those 30 worms to a big mass of worms in 3 to 5 months, I can recreate the project in a bin of 9 square feet and grow a lot more worms at a time.

I’ll keep you updated on how the bin is doing in the near future. Let’s see what happens in the bin in 3 weeks. The bin will be 6 weeks old then.

Thanks for reading and see you in the next post.

copying experiment with 30 vermicomposting worms in a small bin.

Introduction to 30 vermicomposting worms in a small bin

I love experimenting and growing vermicomposting worms. For that, I do a lot of research and I follow quite a few vermicomposters, pro or amateur, online and offline. One  Youtube channel I  follow quite a bit is that of London worms and garden. I don’t know if that channel is professional or amateur but I know he does know a lot about worms and if you’re interested in worm farming I would highly advise you to follow his channel.

“all cardboard” bin

London worms and garden did an experiment with an “all cardboard” bin. He put 30 vermicomposting worms in a small bin with only cardboard as medium to eat and live in. I am almost copying the experiment. The only difference, If I understand it right, is that I am adding frozen and then thawed vegetables from time to time where he started of with a small amount of composted  guinea pig bedding and otherwise nothing but cardboard. So the worms should survive in this “cardboard only” bin and according to the success of London worms and garden, they should really thrive in there.  If I understood correctly what happened, the worms should be multiplying like crazy and go from 30 to about 500 or 600 in 5 months. On the other hand, red worm composting has done a similar experiment with a totally different result. Could it be the difference of vermicomposting worm? Or is there something going on with the cardboard? Or maybe it’s just good luck versus bad luck. I don’t really know the answer. But I do want to see what the experiment does for me.

This made me really interested as I grow worms to go fishing and I do need a lot of worms in one single fishing trip. If I had the possibility to grow enough worms for myself and maybe some friends, that would be magnificent.

My current problem is the amount of bedding I need and the amount of food. If I have the possibility to grow 600 worms from 30 worms in 5 months. Imagine if I start up my 30 bins with cardboard.

I should say, I have a big difference with the experiment I do, I don’t use euro’s to do the experiment. I think he used dendro’s (eisenia hortensis) for the experiment. I use red wigglers. But I will do the same experiment with dendro’s in the near future.

fattening worms

If I have enough worms I can start experimenting to fatten up the worms and see what happens.

Fattening worms isn’t all that easy either, especially when using peat moss. So, I’m thinking of using cardboard bedding instead of peatmoss. That would be less expensive and easier to maintain. In the cardboard, I should be able to keep them for a longer period then the maximum 2 weeks before the peatmoss turns bad.

It is very much possible that the worms will already be fattened in about 2 weeks but I really have to check that out.

The experiment is almost in week 3

My “cardboard only” experiment is in week three, at this moment. So, I think I’ll make a new blog post and a video when I go through the bin for the first time after 3 weeks.


So, in about a week, I’ll have a new video and probably a blog post about the 3th week of the red wigglers . I really don’t know what’s happening in the tub at the moment as I only spray the upper layer of cardboard with water when it dries out.

Thanks for reading and see you in about a week.



I haven’t been active lately


I know, I haven’t been active for a long while but fear not, I’m still alive.

I have so many things going on lately that I haven’t had the time nor the will to add anything to the blog. I’ve had a lot of administrative stuff to do and I have been in hospital for a while due to a medication error.

Anyhow, I’m back and ready for it.

Restarted with 2 kilograms of dendrobena or eisenia hortensis

Yes, I’m going to prioritize  on my worms for now. I really need a lot of compost to fill my garden with vegetables and plants. At the moment, I’m not making enough compost although I already ask quite a bit of coffee grounds to neigboring pubs and tea rooms.

People that follow the blog know I use raised bins to grow vegetables due to my back problems. I know am setting up such bins in my shed to grow worms. Each bin can hold about 10 pounds of worms so I started out with 2 kilograms or about 4 to 5 pounds of worms. I’m going to keep the worms in one bin until I can split them up. I’ll then put a second bin next to the first bin and grow my worm mass slowly.

changing feeding habbits

I am also changing my feeding habbits concerning the worms. I’m used to using weeds and vegetable scraps to grow my worms. But I need a lot more food then I can currently give to the worms. So, I’ll start feeding them with chicken feed. Yes, it is possible to grow worms on grains. I’ll just have to check the bins quite often not to get in trouble with protein poisoning.

I will of course discuss my feeding problem with different restaurants in my surrounding area and maybe amend with kitchen scraps of those places. But I will need to use chicken feed as a backup plan when I’m running short on vegetable scraps.


I know, it’s a short message but at least you know I’m still alive. I’ll keep you updated on the worm growing project and I’ll probably start doing tests and experiments with the worms as I want this to grow quite big.

See you in the next message and thanks for reading.


why organic gardening works.

Introduction on why organic gardening works

If we look at the gardening centers now, we are really spoiled. Everything is possible with the least amount of work.

We can buy machinery, pesticides and fertilizers, all in one place.

But is that really necessary?

why organic gardening works

Do we need all this chemical stuff?

If we’re to believe all the natural way gurus, we don’t need any fertilizer and can do with a lot less machinery.

Could it be true that we don’t have to till the soil before we plant something in it?

Can we really grow plants without amending with chemical fertilizer?

Are the plants safe when we don’t use pesticides?

The simple answer is yes, but of course, there’s a lot to do when we want to go natural again.

No fertilizer?

Well, it’s not chemical fertilizer we need. But we do need something to amend the soil.

organic gardening works

Ever heard of compost? Nature has its own way of dealing with green garbage.  And if we give it a hand, things will go even faster. Everything organic is compostable, even meat and manure. Of course, we have to take action and do the right things not to get in trouble with certain diseases.

It is very much possible to pile up all the green materials we find and let it sit until it turns into good compost but that’ ll take quite a bit of time and we could get in trouble with a lot of weed seeds coming through.

If we have the potential of composting at plus 60°C for a longer period of time, we can easily decompose animal manure and carcasses. Also the seeds will no longer stay viable and we ‘ll have clean and healthy compost to cover up the soil.

No pesticides? because organic gardening works.

It may sound weird. But if we keep the soil healthy, we’ll get healthy plants. If we get healthy plants, we’ll have far fewer plant diseases and pests to deal with.

Nature has a simple logic. If it isn’t healthy enough, it shouldn’t survive. So, if we grow weak plants, we’ll get in trouble with pests and diseases.

organic gardening worksKeeping the soil alive and healthy, will in turn give healthy growing plants who are far less prone to disease or pests. There is a saying, “You are what you eat”. The same goes for plants. If the plants get good nutrition in the right amounts, the plants will be healthy. And guess what, no one knows how much fertilizer to give. Only the plant knows what it needs. So if we make sure that there are reasonable quantities of food available for the plant and we don’t overfeed the plant, the plant will do what it’s meant to do, grow.

No machines?

To be honest, we will always need tools to garden. At least if we want to keep it as easy as possible for us. We can use a lawnmower and a tiller and …

But we can also live without a lawnmower. If we stop growing lawns, we will stop mowing lawns.

We can live without a tiller because there’s not really a reason to till the soil.

organic gardeningLet’s say that we can get away with the least amount of machinery as possible. It’s not necessary either to go back to the 19th century. We don’t want to be slave of our garden. But we can really get away with far less because a lot of the machines we use are pure luxury. It’s possible to do lots of things with the right hand tools.


If there is only one thing really important to natural gardening, it’s the care of the land. If we make sure the soil is healthy, vibrant and alive, the plants will do the same. We’ll get healthy vegetables and fruits, year after year without the need for chemical fertilizers or pesticides.

Thanks for reading and see you in the next post.


It’s been ages since I last posted but I’m still gardening


Okay, it’s been ages since I last posted. But don’t dispair, I’m still busy in the garden.

chickens free, plants in cages

Yesterday we bought some wood and we made some cages to protect the plants from the chickens. The chickens now can wander through the garden and have a huge place to peck through.

So now, the plants grow in cages and the chickens are almost totally free. Small minus is the fact that we have to search for the eggs. But who doesn’t like hide and seek.

seedlings are doing great

courgette cucumber

We have some cucumber and squash seedlings growing strong. We still have to wait until half may before we can plant them outside. But we made sure the seedling pots are big enough to keep them healthy during the next weeks.

unforseen potatoes

We weren’t planning on growing potatoes. But now we got some potatoes that already have shoots. So we just have to grow them. I don’t know what the result will be but I’ll be growing them in pots.


I’m much less on the computer and a lot more in the garden. I know I should keep you updated but at the moment I’m only in the mood to make short messages. Have a green thumbs day and grow home.

mealworm farm becomes bigger by the day


People that follow the blog know how I love my mealworms. I’ve been growing mealworms for several years now and I finally decided to go bigger with it. So a mealworm farm it is, now.

In the beginning, I had just a small number of clients but I now transferred all the income from the mealworms to the nonprofit I started and I want to make the system bigger.

3 bins system for my mealworm farm

I remember in 2012 when I started growing mealworms in 3 bins. I had one bin for the mealworms, one bin for the beetles and one bin for the pupae. I really just copied what I then could find on the internet.

In the meanwhile, I have 38 bins and I’m still growing more.

The 3 bin system is a good system if you only need mealworms for your own chickens or reptiles. But once you start to grow for other people you have to enlarge the business a bit.

I had a period where I worked with 9 bins and it worked fairly well. But as already mentioned, I now want to grow more mealworms and get more clients to buy mealworms from me so I’m enlarging the system.

a portable system for the mealworm farm

Because the mealworm farm system is totally made out of bins, it is totally modular and it’s portable. Having a portable system is really interesting in my case. Because I don’t know when the landlord will sell the building we live in at the moment, I need a way to remove everything I have in a fast way.

I did adapt the bins. I’m now buying professional bins that are quite a bit bigger and stackable. The bins are still really portable so I don’t have to worry too much about a potential transportation.

not sure about the price

I’m still not really sure about the price as I have not calculated yet what the mealworms really cost. I must say, I really don’t use all that much wheat bran. And wheat bran doesn’t really cost all that much.

I will eventually have to make a calculation because I do use vegetables to moisten the bins. These vegetables don’t always come from my garden. So, I have to pay for the vegetables I use. I do intend to grow more potatoes and carrots for the mealworms but I still have to calculate the time it will cost me to grow the vegetables.

Selling only locally

I will only be selling locally as it is forbidden by law to send packages with mealworms to potential clients. And the price to transport them ourselves is not comparable to the price we would pay at the post office.


At the moment I don’t really have much more to say. I cannot talk about the garden because the garden is mostly dead right now. But when spring comes, my blog will have more posts again.

Until that day, I wish you well.




sad day, I lost a chicken

introduction to I lost a chicken

chickens, I lost a chickenI know that not many chicken keepers will be shocked when one of their broilers dies.

But to me, it came as a shock. I lost a chicken and I have the impression that I have done something wrong.

what happened?

That is the real question. Because I don’t know what happened with the chicken, I feel bad. I lost a chicken and I didn’t see it coming.

I first found a leg and then I found the whole body.  It was hidden under one of my water capture systems. The animal didn’t seem to be killed by another animal. It just seemed to have died of disease. The other chickens already started picking on the body so it really was a horrible sight.

I really feel bad because I lost a chicken.

chickensI really do feel bad because I found the chicken carcass yesterday. But it seems like the chicken has been dead for a couple of days already. And the worst part is, I didn’t know.

So, it seems like I’m not active enough with my chickens. I really have to change my habits and check my chickens more often.

How did I go from being a really caring chicken keeper to a person that just grows chickens for eggs and meat?

I used to sit with my chickens and feeding them by hand. I knew my chickens and I treated them like pets. Even the broiler chickens had a good life until I butchered them.

Having fewer chickens?

Maybe I should go back to fewer chickens. I used to have 6 chickens that lay eggs and I grew broilers every few months. I had a maximum of 4 broilers at one time.

But I bought a brooder and started growing more and more chickens. I know average at about 20 layer chickens and as many broilers.

Seems like the more animals I have, the less I care. And I don’t really like that.


I really have to check the way I treat the animals. I am mentally becoming a big-time grower chickens and I only have 40 of them. How would I treat 1000 chickens at a time? I don’t even want to imagine.

I’m not really sure if I will go back to fewer chickens but I’m sure that I have to change my habits and treat my chickens better than I have done the last year.

I know this is kind of personal but I just had to write it down.

If you have come to this sentence, thank you for reading.

See you in the next blog post.



9 Ways to Save Money Gardening

This site may contain affiliate links. to read our full disclosure, click here. Now let’s see how to save money gardening.

Introduction on how to save money gardening

I read a blog post about how much money an average gardener can “save” by growing his own produce.

I must say, it was a real joke. As it seems, there’s no money to be made as an average gardener. I really wonder how then, it’s possible for small farmers to grow produce and live off the sales they make.

I know, farming isn’t the same as gardening. But people that really want to invest in gardening can make serious income changes. You just have to be frugal and believing in it.

Below I have written several ways to save money while gardening. Even if you only have a minimum amount of time to grow vegetables. One thing is true though. You’ll get out of the garden, what you put in. So, more time spent intelligently in the garden will result in more produce grown on the same square feet of soil.

make your own seedling pots

kale seedlings in save money gardeningThis can be a real investment in time or an easy to do job.

I personally “make” paper pots. I do this because I want to be able to sell seedlings.

Selling seedlings in something like a toilet paper roll isn’t as attractive as making your own square paper pots made off a newspaper.

But it’s very much possible to just collect your toilet paper rolls to grow your own seedlings on the cheap.

Real seedling pots, especially biodegradable ones are really expensive, so look for ways to avoid buying these pots.

make your own gardening fences and trellises

pole beans trellisesInstead of buying fancy fences and trellises, start making your own. Everyone has a way to get to pallets or left behind wood.

As long as you find material for free, you can make durable fences and trellises without spending a dime.

Yes, you will have to make those fences or trellises but if you do it intelligently, you can reuse them many years to come.

save seeds and do seed swaps

normal seed saving to save money gardening

parsley flower in the sun in save money gardeningNormal seed saving is growing a vegetable until it bolts and goes to seed.

The procedure to save seeds can be found on the internet. And it is quite easy if you have enough patience. Just try it and you’ll see you will have small wins each time you do it.

Sometimes you’ll get a lot of seed. Maybe you’ll get less seed than you want it. Just redo it and you’ll get more each time you do it. You’ll get better at it and save more and more money doing it.

seed saving by reusing vegetables

I personally save seeds from fruits and vegetables I use in the kitchen.

For instance, an apple contains seeds that can be planted. And there are many more fruits and vegetables that contain seeds you can remove just before you eat the fruit or vegetable.

One of the things I also do is replanting cut off vegetables.


leek roots seed savingLeeks can be cut off so there’s a small piece of the plant still left. You can use these pieces to regrow and use. Or you can regrow these pieces to regrow and go to seed.

I like the second way of going about it. I regrow the pieces and let them go to seed so I can regrow the seeds the next year. That’s a lot more produce to be made by the regrown piece when grown to seed then just the regrown piece itself.


For onions, you can do just the same as you do with leeks. Just make sure you use a good 2 centimeters or 1 inch with the root attached. Replant it and let it go to seed the next year. One plant will give you fresh, more viable seed, to grow all the onions you need for the next year.


celery in kitchenThe regrowth of celery goes by the same principal. just use about 1 inch or 2 centimeters of the celery core with the roots attached and let it grow to seed.

You will learn a lot by using this trick and you’ll get more viable seeds then the store bought ones. The seed that is sold in the stores can be as old as 3 years. I can assure you that it’s really difficult to germinate three-year-old onion seeds.

Compared to store-bought seeds, self-grown seeds have an almost 100% sprouting ratio.

make your own fertilizer

compost to save money gardening

compost pile make your own fertilizerEveryone already knows about compost. There are different ways to make compost. One thing is certain, homemade compost is the best.

Compost contains nutrition for the plants and also contains the life the soil needs to let plants flourish.


Yes, you might call me mad, but urine is a really good fertilizer. You just have to check how much urine you need for which plants. Some plants don’t mind pure urine. Other plants need the urine to be combined with a certain amount of water.

One thing I should mention is this, let the urine stand for at least 6 months. After 6 months there’s no more danger for pathogens.


Chickens poop, cows poop, horses poop. Every animal poops, that’s a fact.

You can compost and use this manure on your vegetable beds. Composted manure is really beneficial for the plants.

You can combine the poop with wood chips or other carbon material to fully compost it before using it.

compost tea

Bad soil can be helped out with compost tea. The best way to treat soil is with compost. But sometimes you don’t have enough compost to fully cover your vegetable beds. A good compost tea can help you out in the beginning until the soil is becoming better.


Last but not least, we have vermicompost. Composting organic material with worms is really making black gold out of kitchen scraps. Vermicompost is a low-level fertilizer with a lot of life in the matter. Using a small part of vermicompost on your vegetable beds, will not only help out the fertility but also the health of the plants.

Use available mulches

collect leaves to save money gardening

In the fall, the trees drop their leaves. This is a golden period. Tree leaves are worth their weight in gold.

Asking the leaves of the neighbors should be a habit, not a problem. At this moment, I’m sure there are neighbors arguing over the leaves blowing around “their” garden.

Leaves are no reason to fight, they are a reason to celebrate life. Because leaf mulch or compost is a heap of life and nutrition to your future plants.

So, start assembling all the leaves you can, so you can start mulch and compost and make new fertility and life in your garden.

use grass clippings

the garden in November use grass clippingsSo many people in our country throw their grass clippings in the green bin. They let the grass clippings being driven away to another place to be composted.

This is a double no-no. First of all, keep the cycle closed in your garden. Pulling the greens away from your garden is the same as stealing from the land.

At the same time, the vehicles needed to drive your greens away, pollute the air without any reason.

Use your grass clippings to mulch the vegetable and flower beds. Compost grass clippings to make fresh fertile soil.

use basic tools

wood chips by hand

I personally sold my wood chipper because I don’t use it enough. In our garden, we chip the wood by hand. No, we don’t have those small wood chips a wood chipper would make. But our woodchips do the job very well.

compost with a basic shovel

You don’t need an industrial compost maker to make compost. Using manpower is enough to make perfect compost. The use of manpower also avoids spending money in a fitness center. So composting really saves a lot of money.

avoid machinery

making a lasagna bed woodchips in save money gardeningAs I already mentioned, in our garden, we do the woodchipping manually. That’s not the only way to avoid machinery. Being a good tenant of the soil, I don’t till the soil. I take care of the soil by mulching and putting compost on top. There’s no need to till the soil, it’s instead much more natural and easy not to till the soil.

use bio-intensive systems

square foot gardening

cheap raised bin square foot gardeningThere are different methods of growing vegetables. Some people like rows of different crops. Other people like to grow mono-crops and use their field for one crop.

I personally love the square foot gardening method. It offers a lot of different vegetable patches in the garden. It’s easy to maintain and it doesn’t cost much to anything to divide the backyard into small squares of one foot each.

You can grow a lot more food with the square foot gardening method than you can with any other method. So, square foot gardening is worth considering.

follow up crops

Growing with the square foot method makes it easy to grow follow up crops. But even if you grow in rows, you can start a new crop as soon as the old crop is harvested. Just check the internet to see what crops to grow in what season.

vertical farming

If possible, use vertical space. Plants like cucumbers, pole beans and can be grown vertically with the use of a simple cheap trellis.

The plants I summed up aren’t the only plants to grow vertically, there are many different ways to grow vertically.

The use of vertical space can grow your small garden really big on the same square footage.

grow expensive produce

tomato plant grow expensive produceIf possible, try to grow the most expensive produce you can. Plants like garlic, tomatoes, cucumbers, courgettes are all really expensive in the shop but easy and cheap to grow in the garden.

sell produce

This might not be a way to save money gardening. But what can beat making money while gardening?

You can talk to your neighbors to let them buy your surplus of vegetables, fruits or even eggs and chickens.

I personally grow a lot of seedlings. And I sell those to my neighbors and people that garden in our city.


I’m sure there are many more ways to save money or make money gardening and maybe I will amend this article if I find lucrative projects while gardening.

For now, this is it for this article on 9 ways to save money gardening.

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